After struggling with acne for years, White Orange founder Carishma Khubhani still had a hard time finding skin are products that worked for her — and even when her acne cleared, she was worried that her skin may revert back to its old habits. “I always wanted to have my own skin care line one day,” said Khubani, who was a musician in Los Angeles before becoming a brand founder. “[My dermatologist and esthetician] told me that the only things that have been proven to make a visible difference in your skin are vitamin C and retinol.” Other vitamin C serums were expensive or unpleasant to use — or simply didn’t work — which led her to create White Orange.
After three years of formulating, White Orange claims to bring on a new generation of vitamin C. Vitamin C is the king of skin care ingredients for good reason — it’s proven to help with sun damage, dark spots, and even acne. But you might be surprised to learn that there are different types of vitamin C in the products you use. Most vitamin C products on the market (including the priciest products) use a form of vitamin C called L-ascorbic acid. It’s a go-to because there have been so many clinical studies supporting its efficacy; however, the downside is that it can be irritating and unstable. (Stability ensures that the product retains its potency over time.) “It’s cheap and it’s inexpensive and [brands who use it] want to maximize their profit margins to be able to pay all their overhead,” Khubani says.
With this knowledge, Khubani chose to use a less-common form of vitamin C called tetra hexadecyl ascorbate, or BV-OSC. She claims it’s the most potent, yet stable form of vitamin C, and so far, the science looks promising: A study found that after an aqueous gel with 10% BV-OSC was applied to a group of patients over the span of two to 10 months, age spots, acne and skin redness all showed immense improvement.
In addition to tetrahexadecyl ascorbate, one of the most significant ingredients that influenced the name of the product is pith — the white part of the orange (hence the brand name) — which was included for its high concentration of vitamin C. Other ingredients include hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid, and vitamin E — all superstar skin care ingredients proven to fight free radicals and help overall skin texture and brightness. White Orange also added orange stem cells, which feature their own exclusive proprietary complex, and a liposomal delivery system to help the ingredients penetrate more deeply into the skin.
Other products also use tetrahexadecyl ascorbate, like Sunday Riley C.E.O 15 Vitamin C Brightening Serum — so what makes White Orange different? It’s all in the delivery system. Many vitamin C products come in glass dropper bottles, so the product is exposed to light and air every time you use it, which allows the product to oxidize and become less effective. White Orange puts their product in a syringe-style bottle, so your product isn’t exposed to air and you only pump out the amount you need, preserving the freshness of the serum. The formula is also vegan and cruelty-free.
Khubani recommends using the product before you apply your moisturizer and SPF and after you wash your face and potentially apply a toner. After washing my face with my CeraVe Hydrating facial cleanser, I used the White Orange serum and finished off with my trusty CeraVe moisturizer. The formula is very light and non-sticky and so far, the product seems to be very gentle and non-irritating (I have highly sensitive skin). I also really like the syringe bottle, which is travel-friendly and dispenses the perfect amount each time. I haven’t noticed any anti-aging or acne-preventing effects, but I would recommend trying this product if you’re looking to add a gentle serum to a simple skincare routine — and if you have sensitive skin, you can rest easy knowing this formula won’t irritate.
Telang P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(2), 143–146.
Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.