Editor’s take note: This selection was at first offered on March 16, 1995 in Paris and has been digitized as aspect of Vogue Runway’s ongoing endeavours to document historical trend exhibits.
The descriptor “business in the front, celebration in the back” functions properly to explain some of the most extraordinary appears to be like in Yohji Yamamoto’s tumble 1995 all set-to-wear selection, which mixed masculine tailoring with frothy bustles, a reprise of a concept the designer experienced to start with explored in 1986. “The target on the bottom is typical for Jap modes of dressing, which typically emphasize a woman’s elegance as ‘seen from the back again,’ like in the Japanese ukiyo-eprints,” wrote a Costume Institute curator about a piece from the 1995 display.
Through his career, Yamamoto has deconstructed historic Western gown, or collaged features of it, with Japanese dress traditions. And he has a 360° eyesight: lavishing as much awareness to the backs and sides of garments as the entrance. With smooth construction and ethereal materials like mesh he has been equipped to attain what required stiff engineering in the 19th century.
Soft to the touch but weighty in their materiality had been a team of chunky knitted coats. Website-like deconstructed knits and velvet added to the symphony of textures in a collections with a limited and mainly muted palette. At the time, the dresses had been compared to widow’s weeds. Wanting at them from a distance of just about 30 several years, I read them otherwise. The mix of his-and-hers reads to me like a nuanced celebration of female electric power.